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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble shop securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary triumph.